WARNING!!! This is my first attempt ever to make a bot. I messed up in
several areas, but was able to fix the problems. However, some problems
coudln't be "undone" enough to make a new photo of. Some steps I simply
zipped thru and forgot to document. So bare with me, and do e-mail me if
you have questions
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Step 1: Get out your snack dispenser machine. See the black
lever? Good. Now see the point where there's a grove on the lever where
the movable lower lip starts? Make cuts there to remove the lever. |
Step 2: Pry off the bottom black lid. You can drill a hole in the
middle and pry it off w/ a screwdriver, or use a screw driver (maybe
2) on the edge. Just get it off safely. |
Step 3: Get out a hacksaw, or a keyhole saw (and a very steady
hand) and remove the clear plastic globe. Cut it just above the top of the
base. Try to get as much of the globe as you can, without ruining the
base. |
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Step 4: Now get out a 1/2" PVC "Tee" and cut it into a shape like
this. Well almost. Don't make the middle cut that big, and you need to
taper the edges. |
Step 5: Sorry that I can't show it, but here's what you need to
do. Look at step 2's picture. See the little red flap; the part where the
spring attaches? Well when you have the thing in your hands you'll see it
easier. Anyway, on that flap, you need to drill a 1/8" hole. Also, in the
bottom (at least when its upside down), drill a 1/16" hole for a screw
eye. I'll continue w/ this on step 6 now. |
Step 6: Take some nylon thread (not sewing thread! It won't be strong
enough), and put it thru the red lever, and tie it. Then thru the screw
eye. When that's done, insert the PCV Tee. Use hot glue (or epoxy if you
believe you can do things in one shot) to keep it in. Then, you can
LIGHTLY (and with 400 grit sand paper) sand the base, and spray gray
primer on it. You may want to wait for the glue at the end if you want to
do a dry fit (highly suggested!). |
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Step 7: When you're waiting for things to dry, prime the 2 lids (one
on the top, and an extra one) with gray primer. After it dries, you can
paint them red. Notice the left one looks like a petri dish. Those are air
bubbles. Not a good thing. Make sure you put on AT LEAST 4 coats of red
total, each one about 1-2 hours between. |
Step 8: Yes more continuity problems. (Jeez my bot building page could
easily be MiSTed). Anyway, be sure to paint the base ruby red metal flake
(4+ light coats, even strokes), then when that dries (1 hour for a
"wet" dry, 24 hours for "complete" dry) paint the mouth w/ enamel
gloss silver paint. No need to spray, just use a brush and a little paint
bottle. If you wish, put masking tape on red parts near the mouth. Also
don't forget to paint the inside of the mouth flat black. Take the
1/2" PVC and glue it in to the "Tee". |
Step 9: Get your money lovers barrel and spray it with 1 or 2 coats of
gray primer. |
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Step 10: Get your boo bowl, or "boo bowl"-clone, and spray it w/ white
primer. |
Step 11: Spray your barrel ruby red metal flake. Again 4 or 5 coats,
even strokes. |
Step 12: More continuity problems. Get your engine block and spray it
w/ gray primer (or red primer of available). Then spray w/ ruby red metal
flake. I did not do this originally! I never saw ruby red metal flake up
close until AFTER I looked at the barrel AND engine block together. End
result is seen in step 18. Anyway, After you spray it red, get the silver
out again, and paint the "pistons" silver. |
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Step 13: Is this deja vu? No its Different than step 10. Paint the
bowl flat white. Spray, or brush your choice. Spray makes it quicker, but
its curved so I easily missed areas. |
Step 14: Now this picture is incorrect (I may touch it up w/ photoshop
later to show what it SHOULD look like). Yes you want to drill 2
1/4" holes on the sides of the barrels. They will be placed at 3-o'clock
and 9-o'clock positions, if you've got the "Money Lover barrel" logo
facing you directly. The holes should be just above the top rim. I had
them slightly too high. The hole should be touching (possibly even just go
thru the top of) the top rim. Not ON the rim, but just above it. |
Step 15: Open the bottom of the barrel using a hole saw, or keyhole
saw (or a combo of both), so that you can get your hands inside. Drill a
hole in the flashlight head so that the bolt in the cast resin copy of
your Mr Moonie doll arm will fit right in the middle of it. This is where
you place your flashlight head on the barrel. Get a nut and screw it on
the bolt from the inside of the barrel. Do this for both arms. |
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Step 16: Take the spring and put it on the arm. There should be a
little nick in it that will hold the spring. Also put on the hands on the
spring. |
Step 17: Drill a 1" hole on the top of the center of the
barrel. You must make sure it is centered! Open it up more but not too
much, but just enough so you can put in your 1" PVC pipe. It should just
barely stick out of the top. When you got it right, hot glue it on
there. To test, put servo's head on. It should freely move, be
centered, and not be tilted. |
Step 18: Glue the engine block on the front of the barrel. Yes yes I
now see that it was red PRIMER and not ruby red. I fixed it later! |
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Step 19: Take the bowl, and drill a 1 inch hole on the top middle
(again be sure its centered!). Again open it so the 1" PVC can get thru.
Put the 6 tyco trains around the bowl evenly. You can use self tapping
screws for this. If you look at the enlarged picture of the bowl, you can
see the screws. The foam tubing should NOT be self gluing, but SHOULD have
a pre-made cut in the middle so it can fit on to the bowl. Fit it around
loose, and make a cut. Do it slightly larger, so you have more to work
with. Too short and you're screwed. |
Step 20: Stick the barrel's PVC into the bowl's hole, stick the head
in the top of the PVC and you're done! Hopefully it should look like
this (and not like some of the sample pictures of above) |
Again as you can see, this was my first bot building experience. Kinda
messy, and it definitely taught me. Even if you DO follow my instructions,
if you're not familiar w/ bot building, or with craft making, you WILL
mess up something.
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